I am not a Christian. For that matter I am a non believer of all religions and an athiest to the core. However, the profound faith of others fascinates me and makes me conscious of my total inability to give myself into the hands of a superior power. Maybe it is sheer arrogance on my part to believe, albeit indirectly, that there is no one superior to me and hence there is no need to give myself up to the mercy of some other body or power.
It is this fascination which drove me to visit Haridwar some time back and more recently to Lourdes, near the France-Spain border in Southern France. Lourdes lies at an altitude of 420 m (1,380 ft) and in a central position through which runs the fast-flowing river Gave de Pau The border of Spain is just 80 kms from Lourdes.
St. Bernadette
Lourdes is associated with the story of Bernadette, a little poor girl, illiterate and sick. As the story goes Bernadette along with two other girls went to collect firewood and suddenly saw a light in the cave and there was the apparition. After three days Bernadette went to the cave again and saw the Lady. In all there were 18 apparitions and then the authorities closed the access to the cave.
Bernadette went from Lourdes to Nevers in Bourgogne on 7th July, 1866, covering a distance of over 700 kilometers. In Nevers she joined the Sisters of Charity of Nevers. She had a very short life- she was born in 1844 and died in 1879. Her body is on display in the Chapel of the Convent of Nevers. She was canonized and made St. Bernadette in 1933.
The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes or the ‘Domain’ (as it is most commonly known) is an area of ground surrounding the shrine (Grotto). This ground is owned and administrated by the Roman Catholic Church, and has several functions, including devotional activities, offices, and accommodation for sick pilgrims and their helpers. The Domain includes the Grotto itself, the nearby taps which dispense the Lourdes water, and the offices of the Lourdes Medical Bureau, as well as several churches and basilicas. It comprises an area of 51 hectares, and includes 22 separate places of worship. There are six official languages of the Sanctuary: French, English, Italian, Spanish, Dutch and German. It is estimated that over the last 150 years over half a billion people have visited Lourdes.
Devotees partaking the holy water
Although never formally encouraged by the Church, Lourdes water has become a focus of devotion to the Virgin Mary at Lourdes. Since the apparitions, many people have claimed to have been cured by drinking or bathing in it, and the Lourdes authorities provide it free of charge. The faithful also take it in plastic bottles for those who have not been able to make this pilgrimage- just like a visit to Haridwar.
The other places to visit are the Museum of Lourdes which is just 3 minutes from the shrines, via the ‘Lift of Equality’ and where one finds the portrayal of the story of St. Bernadette. The ticket to the museum is 6 euros. Just next to the Museum is the cemetery. There is also a funiculaire which takes one to the Pic du Jer where one finds the highest grottos of France and a 360 degree panorama of Lourdes.
The Mass is performed in various international languages, besides in French. But I was surprised to find that the notices for the Mass next day were in French as well as in Tamil! Yes there is an Indian connection. L’Eglise De Notre Dame Des Anges in Pondicherry has been designed on the model of Lourdes. Many Indians, especially from South India visit Lourdes as a holy pilgrimage.
There is an impressive and very dignified candle light procession at 9 p.m. There is a direct 24X7 television telecast of the Mass as well as other areas of the Domain which is available at the following website in English: http://www.lourdes-france.org/index.php?goto_centre=ru&contexte=en&id=405
A night view
Lourdes is located at the foot of the Pyrenees mountains at the border between France and Spain. Three sites close to Lourdes must not be missed when visiting that area – the Gavarnie Cirque, the Pyrenees National Park and Pic du Midi. There are daily bus tours from Lourdes, covering these areas during summer.
A visit to Lourdes in France is recommended for all- fifty+ and those even younger than that.
Fact File:
By road: Lourdes is about 9 hours drive from Paris via Toulouse and the highway A64.
By train: Perhaps the most convenient way of travelling to Lourdes from Paris is by train. The Lourdes train station is just a few hundred metres from the City Centre as well as the ‘Domain’.The small SNCF (French railway system) station offers minimal services, but there are free toilets (a rarity in France!), a small coffee/pastry counter and some soft drinks vending machines. SNCFs website in English is: http://www.sncf.com/en_EN/flash/
By Air: The nearest airport is Tarbes-Lourdes and the return air ticket for Paris Orly- Tarbes Lourdes is around 300 euros. Delhi-Paris-Delhi airfare starts at around Rs.38,000.
Conducted Tours: There are some conducted tours from Paris to Lourdes in summer. For tour by TGV train see, for example http://www.filfranck.com/Tour_LO2.htm and http://www.cluballiancevoyages.com/club_alliance_voyages/Accueil.html for conducted bus trip Paris-Lourdes-Paris.
Hotels: Lourdes is a small town and every place is in a walking distance. Hotels of various types are available. One can hope to get a room for around Euros 50 a night at many hotels (for example Hotel du Petit Languedoc and Hotel Mediterranee Lourdes).
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Text, photographs & copyright by K.J.S.Chatrath
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This article was earlier published in my website
www.fiftyplustravels.com
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Email: kjschatrath@yahoo.co.in; chatrath@gmail.com
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